Archive for March, 2007

That would be the current sale of Truchard Syrah 2000 for $12.99. You heard me. A seven-year-old killer wine from Carneros, Napa’s fabled domain of volcanic soil and deep terroir, for under thirteen dollars! truchard.jpgIt’s at Shoppers Corner right now (corner of Branciforte and Soquel for those out-of-town readers), and just so you know that I put my money where my mouth is, I just bought a case of the stuff myself. (more…)

Digitally-manipulated postmodern super-hero mythology — yeah, baby! I am disgusted with myself, but I must confess up front. I wallowed, blissfully, in this two-hour exercise in visual S&M. I’m referring of course to 300, a graphic novel (i.e. adult comic book) by Frank Miller, brought to the screen (whether it needed to be or not) by Zack Snyder and company. 300.jpgA truly phenomenal bit of blood porno, 300 retells the legend/hype of 300 warrier-maniac Spartans making a stand against tens of thousands of Persians at Thermopylae. The real skirmish happened around 480 BC when Persian king Xerxes sent his bigger-than-God army to conquer Greece. But he didn’t count on the foolish bloodlust of the Spartans, who make their stand at the mouth of a narrow canyon, where they can maximize their numbers.

Yes, it’s a suicide mission — but god-almighty it offers a wild ride for the neural synapses. Making full, even ridiculous, use of leading-edge digital technology, the production breaks into visual territory that actually has no precedent. Sure there are the slow-motion, stop-action effects we’ve seen in Crouching Tiger, or The Matrix. And there are dazzling color effects — draining out everything except bronze and sepia-tones, and then pumping up the reds for all they’re worth — we’ve seen in recent work, such as Pan’s Labyrinth. But the overall package — artfully packed with more 12-pack abs, thighs of steel and just plain ripped-and-cut male bodies than I would have thought even existed on one small planet — is thrilling. Yes, I’m aghast that I am confessing this. Blood porn, to be sure. But in a socio-political era (ours) that is fast outpacing even Nero’s Rome for decay and decadence, 300 provides a splash of much-needed catharsis. And I must quickly point out that masculine beauty aside, there are scenes of breathtaking poetry in which the potential of digital sculpting is pushed way out to the front of the wave. (more…)

Great red wine for under $10: It’s my new house red wine, the wittily-labelled 2004 Syrah, Domaine des Blagueur from Bonny Doon Vineyard, where every bottle comes with a witty label. Big, but not aggressive - full of fruit, yetbdoon.jpg well-mannered as a partner for foods, and most of all delicious. This Syrah is loaded with insistent tones of cassis, pepper, licorice and a whiff of rust. A mineral back, if you will.

Ralph Steadman’s label drawing of a joker with attitude says it all. Rustic sophistication, and despite the “here’s blood-in-your eye” label, this wine is no joke. Thirteen percent alcohol makes it an easy rider with everything from roast pork to striped bass, and the screw-top cap makes it even easier to access. French grapes (from the Languedoc in SW France), BD finesse. Allez vites! and get yours!

Oswald has decided on its next home — at the corner of Soquel and Front Streets, home of the former Garage sports bar. And the deal just needs a few tweaks to be finalized. Downtown Redevelopment Director (and killer bridge player) Ceil Cirillo is, in a word “stoked” about the prospect of having a terrific bistro as the entrance to downtown Santa Cruz. “I am excited about the potential for everyone,” Cirillo told me. “We intend to build out the rest of the garage frontage on Front Street so that Oswald’s won’t be alone. They intend to close the entrance from the garage and only have an entrance from Front Street. It’s exciting!”

Also excited is Oswald’s Eric Lau, who concurs that the lease negotiations are in process, and prophecies, “probably 4 to 6 months until completion - though it’s hard to speculate.” Lau believes the whole Front Street area is “improving a lot,” pointing to plans to turn the former Santa Cruz Hardware into a clothing store, and the Octagon into a coffeehouse. Like many of us, Lau looks forward to “a cleaner, more friendly downtown.”

Whoa. Did he say “Octagon into coffeehouse?” Yes he did. And here’s why. Lulu’s @ the Octagon is almost a reality as you read this. Thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit of Lulu’s proprietor, Manthri Srinath, in alliance with the Museum of Art & History, the old 1882 Hall of Records at the corner of Front & Cooper Streets is being transformed into a showcase for artisan roasted coffees and selected organic foods. Things are definitely looking vibrant for the Abbott Square area, especially with Vinocruz in the act.

After your cappuccino at the new Lulu’s @ the Octagon, rush on over to the corner of Soquel and Front Streets and see if you don’t think Oswald will make the perfect entrance to downtown.

beets.jpgThe Westside Farmers Market continues to win hearts, minds and taste buds at the foot of Western Drive every Saturday morning. I ran into farm fanatic and photo princess Tana Butler last week and we strolled around the stalls, talking collard greens and organic growing. And cute farmers. . . .

The gorgeous orange and pink beets from Route One Farms knock me out. And the pepper cress from Happy Boy Farms must be sampled to be believed. It will put a distinctive spin on your next salad. Fabulous tulips are on offer for astonishing prices from Dirty Girl, and those mighty H&H fishing folks are still well-stocked with wild seafoods. Ultra fresh. Which is the whole point behind the open-air, grower-direct farmers markets.

You’ve got one near your house — go there every week and watch spring turn to summer.

Remember the delicious culinary moves of Bella Napoli founding chef Giavanni Di Maio? (I still miss that place.) Okay, now recall that I recently re-discovered Di Maio cooking in an underwhelming setting? Right. Well, Di Maio has just taken over the kitchen at Greg D’Innocenti’s delectable Star Bene on East Cliff. Authentic Italian comfort food made by an authentic Italian is yours nightly from 5pm, or at lunch on weekdays. Di Maio is 100% Neapolitan and specializes in the sauce-intensive, luxurious dishes of southern Italy. The Pasta Norma, oh God. The veal marsala, mi piace moltissimo. Star Bene, easily one of the prettiest little dining rooms in the county, is still located at 21245 East Cliff Drive (between the Yacht Harbor and 17th Avenue). 479-4307. Bring a big appetite. And just say “Ciao!”

Opening this Friday at The Del Mar is an exhiliratingly odd and haunting underwater monster sci-fi thriller called The Host. The work of South Korean filmmaker Bong Joon-ho, this is an all-you-can-eat package of film genres crammed into a juicy two hour ride. A dysfunctional familyhost.jpg forms the centerpiece of what is sometimes an existential gloss on contemporary alienation, sometimes a delicious parody of Godzilla, Monster from the Black Lagoon and that grainy footage from Roswell. What starts off as a scream-fest when picnickers are attacked by a mutant monster-fish rising up out of Seoul’s polluted Han River, quickly morphs into ironic comedy as we meet precocious Hyun-Seo, her slacker father Gang-Du (who runs a snack shop by the river with his father), plus Gang’s brother — an unemployed university graduate and his sister, a champion archer. Relax, it’s easy to understand when told by Joon-ho’s uncanny, often poetic camerawork.

The film is stained a dozen shades of urban grey punctuated with the pop colors of Korea’s youth culture, and everything turns suddenly alarming when the government puts the feckless family into quarantine. Terry Gilliam meets Art Bell (more…)

to see my article on Love Apple Farm grower, Cynthia Sandberg in the March 8 GT Weekly. Great photos throughout the Dining Special, by Kelly Vaillancourt.

As wineries all over California are busy retrofitting their vineyards in order to pass Demeter biodynamic certification, the Fetzer family’s Patianna winery is already making killer wines that would make Rudolph Steiner proud.patlabel.jpg

Biodynamic techniques rule at the Mendocino estate where proprietor Patti Fetzer and winemaker Mike Lee are turning out wines as good for the earth as they are good for the connoisseur. Biodynamic techniques —which stress meticulous attention to seasonal and lunar cycles, hand management of vines, companion planting and artesenal composting — yield wines rich with the unique terroir of the land on which they are made. Here’s my favorite new example: Patianna’s much-praised 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. This gorgeous white wine weighs in at medium alcohol and major complexity, loaded with crisp tones of lemon, sage and mineral essence. It’s also got one of those very sexy, very easy-to-use screw-tops. I’ve preferred this grape to the oft-flabby chardonnay for many years. Patianna’s version will make a believer out of you. Available at Shadowbrook’s Rock Room lounge. And at Shoppers Corner for just under $17.

Nothing prepared me for this spellbinding package of high def digital cinematography, under-stated horror and savvy, ensemble acting. But that’s exactly what Zodiac delivers. Long (2 hours, 40 minutes) yet so taut and intricately edited that time stands still. And anyone old enough to recall the shock and awe the Bay Area experienced during the early 70s as the serial killer of the title insinuated himself onto the front pages and the collective psyche, will be gripped by this brilliant true-life crime film.zodiac.jpg

Director David Fincher has already shown his dark power in Seven, and earlier in the cult classic, Fight Club. This time he restrains himself, turns the colors down to the saturated browns of another era, with a few David Lynchean touches of aqua and acid yellow, adds some vintage Donovan to the Hurdy-Gurdy Man soundtrack and shoots away. (The digital process used by cinematographer Harris Savides is called Viper. No film, no videotape — this is the first major motion picture to use the process). The effect is visually pulverizing, as chrome grilles of Ford Galaxies fill the entire screen, every stop light oozes danger and the editorial offices of the San Francisco Chronicle take on the frenetic pulse of an entire city.

Three compelling actors — each at the top of his game — power this film along, like a mystery play in three acts. Jake Gyllenhaal plays Chronicle cartoonist Robert Graysmith, on whose book the film is based. With bulldog tenacity Gyllenhaal’s character gets caught up in the newsroom excitement, as the Zodiac killer begins sending his coded messages in to the newspaper. Journalist Paul Avery (played by an astonishing Robert Downey, Jr) starts tracking the case in print, while homicide detective David Toschi (played by Mark Ruffalo) tries to connect the dots as more murders crop up around the Bay Area backroads. Each man attempts to make sense of the seemingly random killings, and the enigmatic hand-written notes from Zodiac, as the film tightens, yet never succumbs to thriller genre pornography. (more…)

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