Here’s my new favorite wine â€” from Sicily, home of volcanic soils, radiant climate and sensuous foods. This lusty cabernet sauvignon is Timpaia 2004, from Feudi di San Giuliano ($17.99 at Shoppers). At 13.5% alcohol it’s big enough to have a mind of its own, but not aggressive. As it opens, it moves through a soft yet full-bodied vocabulary of intriguing opinions, starting with plums, leather and a center of ripe tomato, into a lake of cherry, licorice and gunpowder (that’s the sulfuric, mineral terroir talking, no matter what Dan Patterson says). Finally you’re in a world of sumptuous strawberry.
Terrific with cheeses, it also partners lamb and grilled yellowtail.