Wondering what to have with that grilled lamb burger? Wonder no more. Help is available in thegatos.jpg form of Gatos Locos 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Syrah. Big, but not too big (13.8% alc.), spicy but not whimsical, this luscious red wine offers a center of leather and plums. Part of the sumptuous line of Wines of Vine Hill, it’s available at Shoppers for $19.95, or up at the Vine Hill winery — worth the spectacular drive up behind Branciforte — it tastes even better on Day Three (though it probably won’t last that long).