While quaffing a bracing bit of white wine from the French Savoie, I inhaled my new favorite appetizer at Soif. Served in a rustic glazed dish, fat gigande beans were joined by pancetta and those sexy end-of-the-season tomatoes that taste like a Mediterranean smile. Served warm, this dish ($6) was enough for two to enjoy, along with some crisp wine. The more minerals the better. I’m thinking Grüner Veltliner – the wine poised to bump Chardonnay back to the Stone Age.