The place was Fort Mason.peaches.jpg

The day was perfect — a blend of fog and brilliant sunlight playing tag with the Golden Gate bridge in the distance.

The excuse was the American Craft Council design show and a chance to learn some tricks of the trade from my designer buddy Kate.

After feasting on handmade jewelry and textiles from the top artisans in the country, we cooled our heels (along with throngs of visitors) at Greens, where I’m happy to say both food and service at the legendary restaurant have never been better.

We started with a shared plate of warm grilled Blossom Bluff Farm peaches, shown here with Bellwether fromage blanc, tangy watercress and wildflower honey. Such straightforward flavors of summer, smartly paired to emphasize texture contrasts—yes, we could probably do this at home. corncakes.jpgBut we don’t.

For main courses, Kate chose a wilted spinach salad (she was saving room for warm plum cake and almond ice cream), while I worked swiftly through a feisty platter of ricotta fresh corn cakes (shown here), with crème fraiche, dill, basil, and a wildly delicious salsa of fire-roasted tomatoes, cilantro and pumpkin seed.

We lingered over espresso, as much for the view as for the pampering service. How nice that some celebrated dining rooms continue to deliver the goods.