maltagliati.jpgSomehow this neighborhood dining room continues to disarm us. Last night four of us enjoyed a flawless series of plates, from a pizza bianca with crust as thin as a fashion model’s thigh to a sensational emerald appetizer of wild nettle sformato custard smothered with thin shaves of asparagus, arugula and infant pecorino. Tiny allium blossoms added a light onionesque topnote.
While my companions feasted on lamb sausages, buttery halibut and perfectly prepared spring vegetables, I went supernova over a plate of maltagliati (“freeform”) pasta tossed with fava leaves, anchovy, pine nuts, currants and pecorino romano. Literally a perfect plate of pasta. With glasses of the excellent house montepulciano, we dove straight into Tuscany for a few happy hours. Kudos to chef Katherine Stern and company.