branzino.jpgIf you think this creation looks good, you should have tasted it. Sensational!

The Cellar Door kitchen knocked us out last week with an entree of whole roasted branzino, beautifully presented with panzanella and summer squashes (from Bonny Doon Vineyard‘s own biodynamic garden in San Juan Bautista) encircled by a chartreuse zucchini mousse.

It was a terrific entree for the three of us to share, especially paired with Randall Grahm’s never-better dolcetto and nebbiolo. However, the experience was almost ruined by a waiter who had been trained to utter meaningless, pretentious phrases — “it’s my pleasure,” and “the grenache blanc is showing well.”  Perhaps there are visitors from some backwater podunk who find lavish condescension exciting, but for even reasonably savvy diners, it grates. This is a word to whomever is training the otherwise wonderful Cellar Door staff.

Also, for the record, the excellent but fruity grenache blanc was utterly wrong with the fish. The Vin Gris de Cigare would have been perfect.