It surprised even me that of oh say a dozen vintages sampled last week of Le Cigare Volantâ€”that sensuous blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre and cinsaultâ€”I would find myself leaning into a glass of one of Randall Grahm’s white RhÃ´nes. But I did. (See post below.)
The single vineyardâ€”Beeswax Vineyard, Arroyo Secon, San Benito Countyâ€”has yielded a formidable 2009 Le Cigare Blanc, made of 57% Grenache Blanc and 43% Roussanne, loaded with tannin and haunting violets and quince, possibly a hint of madrone, perfume. An autumnal green-gold in hue, this is a Byronic riff on central coast terroir. Well worth sitting down and spending some quality time with.
Try it at the Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room, if you haven’t already scored some for your home cellar.