Applying some spin to his perennially avant garde branding instincts, Doon-meister Randall Grahm has brought in a new chef, and ushered in a new name for his tasting room restaurant.

Gone is the fairly tame “Cellar Door” and in comes the dashing “Le Cigare Volant” named for the winery’s celebrated flagship Rhônesque creation. The culinary team at Le Cigare Volant will be headed up by chef Ryan Shelton, who joins Bonny Doon from the two star Michelin ranked Baumé Restaurant in Palo Alto. The new name, according to Grahm, represents “a commitment to a more refined…level of cuisine and service.” It also reinforces “a deeper association between the restaurant and the winery itself,” the winemaker believes.

I love this – it is much more grown-up, non-generic name for an upmarket dining arena. And you can check out the new ever-changing menu at