More Surprises from Doon

An exciting new chef, a logical new name—just when you thought the dust had actually settled over at the section of the galaxy ruled by Bonny Doon Vineyard…..think again.

A new terroir-driven wine list—soon to be unveiled—will shake up your tired old criticisms of the biodynamic tasting room and restaurant on Ingalls Street.

Seriously. You are not expecting this.

Stern Cooks the Flavors of Spring

Stern Cooks the Flavors of Spring

halibutlaposta.jpgThat would be Katherine Stern, who’s busy transforming the season into edible orgies of flavor, texture and delight.

Last night we sampled an outstanding entree of roast halibut, toasted farro and roasted leeks sauced with a pistachio pesto.

A great pasta dish and the never-better antipasti plate of mixed salumi (shown below) took us a long way to enlightenment.

Dessert involved (more…)

Pinot to Envy

Pinot to Envy

mtedenvineyards.jpgThat would be the 2006 Mt. Eden Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir I had been saving (okay, only for two years….) and finally opened.

Such a beautifully-balanced creation. Plums and sassafras, minerals, a through-line of licorice and a bouquet that suggested the elegant Russian Leather perfume by Chanel. All of this was strung, like Christmas lights, on a slender but sturdy core of tannins. At 13.8% alcohol, it is nearly perfect for my palate.

With salmon, it was celestial. And worth the $49.50 pricetag. Let me say that again. You really do get what you pay for, and even though there’s a lot of drinkable stuff out there (thank you Chile) there’s not a lot of memorable wine.

This was memorable.

Le Cigare Volant – debut dinner

Le Cigare Volant – debut dinner

Yes there is a new chef, and a new name over at the Bonny Doon seafoodcigare.jpgTasting Room. Le Cigare Volant’s the name, and Ryan Shelton—formerly of the Michelin two-star restaurant Baumé in Palo Alto—is the chef.

Our initial dinner last week gave us plenty to smile about. The food is deeply flavorful, i.e. not tricky or overwrought. The ingredients impeccable, and yes, the presentation was both attractive and uncluttered.

Here are some observations. We began with a small plate of house-cured boquerones ($5) fresh from the Monterey Bay. And they were outstanding, neither “fishy,” nor aggressively seasoned. Actually delicate. Great with glasses of Le Cigare Volant Blanc and the 2008 Nebbiolo.

Next we shared what I predict will be the destination starter at the new Le Cigare Volant—an order of the evening’s flatbread creation, topped with spinach, earthy hen of the woods mushrooms and fresh lemon basil sprigs ($14). (more…)