Christina Waters

From Loma Prieta Winery comes a statuesque red wine made from rarely-encountered Pinotage grapes, grown in the Sierra foothills.

The locally-made Pinotage — a varietal usually associated with South Africa and produced in only a handful of North American vineyards—is an opulent tipple indeed, offering enough tannic structure to handle its profusion of cassis, ripe plum, black pepper and sassafras. We loved this wine with bolognese and Italian sausage, but on second thought this out-sized wine cries out for steak.

Wine consultant Laura Ness sums it up as, “Pinot Noir on steroids.” This is a good thing.

Exotic and accessible, the Loma Prieta Pinotage 2008 is available at the mountaintop winery, and at Vinocruz ($45).

There are always many good reasons to visit Soif Wine Bar. This superb and supple 2007 estate Syrah from Peay Vineyards is now among those reasons.

Loaded with leather, a central core of robust red meat and soft peppers, this big, beautiful wine floats a hint of roses and fennel in both nose and finish. Extreme persistence highlights this creation of celebrated winemaker Vanessa Wong, and the name “les Titans” derives from some large-scale redwoods on the Sonoma vineyard’s property.

The Peay “Les Titans” syrah is easily one of the finest California syrahs I’ve tasted. Now at Soif. Go there and sample.

Chemistry—a wildly energetic blend of rarely-combined white varietals, including pinot gris, chardonnay and (gasp!) riesling—is loaded with nectarines, apple and mineral essences. Even a backnote of almonds.

Utterly drinkable all by itself, this Willamette Valley blend is charming enough to sidle up to grilled halibut, goat cheese, and some of the more subtle pastas and pizzas. Katy Cater poured me a sample at Avanti last week and it was an instant “yes!” Stop by the wine bar in the Westside dining landmark and make friends with this beautifully-balanced blend.

Be among the adventurous and sample some exotic Pinotage at a Release Party for the 2008 vintage, August 7 & 8 at Loma Prieta Winery.
Loma Prieta Winery will release the 2nd bottling of 2008 Pinotage from the Amorosa Vineyard in Lodi, along with light appetizers and live music on Saturday afternoon.

There are less than 50 acres of Pinotage planted in California. This intriguing grape was first developed for South African cultivation by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault. The result is an explosive mix of red fruits mingled with spicy cured meat and red licorice. Loma Prieta is the only vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains currently growing this variety, and the only winery producing it. So come over the hill and take a taste on the wild side
Loma Prieta Winery - open every weekend, noon to 5pm.
26985 Loma Prieta Way
Los Gatos, California 95033

Cloaked in a contrarian label are blended grapes from Contra Costa County (the theme begins to sink in…) transformed into the stuff of great ragu and Gorgonzola delivery systems by the shamanic mind of Randall Grahm.

Priced at $14, Contra sips like a much pricier wine, loaded with dark berries, earth, attitude, autumn leaves and a backbone of spine-tingling tannins. Carignane, grenache, mourvedre, petite syrah, a touch of syrah and yes, even old-vine zinfandel have made their way into the heart of this opulent, dusky creation. 13.5% alcohol and persistent attitude have made it our new house favorite.

Stop by the BD tasting room on Ingalls, ask about the eccentric green label. You’ll find out just why there’s a couch sitting in the vineyards. Think of it as Randall Grahm’s way of helping us get through these fiscal doldrums.

Fourteen bucks. Incroyable!

The scenic Santa Cruz Mountains viticultural region opens up its winery tasting rooms this Saturday for the July installment of the Passport tasting cycle.

Over 40 wineries, each distinctive, each showcasing handmade premium wines and the ineffable terroir of this region, will be open for visits, tastings, picnics, finger food, live music and of course purchases - this Saturday, July 17 from 11am until 5pm.

Find out all the details at SCMWA and plan to discover your new favorite wine this weekend.

Italian for “rascal,” birichino is also the name of a highly drinkable malvasia bianca busy quenching discerning thirsts all over central California. Impish and bone dry, this ultra-crisp white wine has been orchestrated by oeno oracle John Locke from Monterey grapes.

A mere one year old, the crystalline creation practically floats in mid-air, offering up hints of jasmine and citrus as it opens. Graced with 12.5% alcohol, the 2009 vintage could go from breakfast to dinner without much struggle. Currently at Soif wine shop for a pocket-friendly $15.

An evening of Italian wines with Amanda Rehn was not only full of vibrant conversation and saucy wine lore, but provided a dozen of us the chance to actually learn a lot about what’s going on in contemporary Italian winemaking.

Three whites and four reds crossed our palates, helped out with ripe taleggio, bread, quince paste and astonishing honey. Of the lot, my favorite was a crisp, complex 2009 Colle Stefano Verdicchio di Matelica, from Le Marche region of central Italy. Gorgeous and easy to drink, it moved from peaches, to salt, into a seductive herbaceous middle, and finished with almonds and violets. The relatively low 13% alcohol kept it refreshing on the palate.

Another revelation was a rustic, earthy Aglianico 2006 Molettieri Irpinia from the very southern Basilicata region. Cigar leaf and roses, bay and white pepper (more…)

The 2008 installment of Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Le Cigare Blanc has been released just in time for serious summer relaxing.

An initial tasting provided an opening hit of honeydew, chased with sea salt and finished with some quince, lime and light jasmine. At 57% Roussane (for the depth) and 43% Grenache blanc (for crisp structure) this wine exudes a perfect balance among citrus, fruit and minerals. Its 14.3% alcohol delivers without equivocation.

This wine just can’t lose. (more…)

My two new summer tipples include a gorgeous persimmon-hued Grenache 2008 made by Denis Hoey of Odonata Wines. Full of pepper and berries, it stands up to king salmon as well as grilled chicken and chile verde. Dreamy and local.

The other comes in blush form, namely the 2008 Vin Gris de Cigare from Randall Grahm, of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Salt and geraniums form the center of this crisp, inviting pink wine. Serve icy cold — it goes with everything but marinara sauce.