Hot Soup!
Wally Goldfrank, sociologist and bon vivant, has returned from November in Madagascar raving about the local, regional spins on French cuisine — “profiteroles in the tropics.†Visualize mango tarte tatin! But more. Wally loves a good bowl of soup on a chilly...
Slacker-speak
"You guys – hey, you guys. Have a good one, guys." Language abuse in America is becoming more prominant than Nancy Pelosi's bosom. Either the revenge of machismo, or the triumph of feminism – it’s unclear which – the prevailing omni-use of “guys†to denote...
Postcards from the Food & Wine Trail
O'Mei Update: It's true - no more lunch at O'Mei. Roger Grigsby, that maverick political hothead and tireless culinary tinkerer emailed me (and believe me an email from Grigsby is a lengthy affair) to say that things are going well now that he has discontinued lunches...
La Posta: Second Visit
So I took Jack, who lived in Rome for a few years and is very picky about his wood-fired pizzas, over to La Posta for a light meal this week. We sat in the front in one of the deep windows that make La Posta such an architectural treat. Service - right on. Wines —...
Stupid Restaurant Speak
1) "No Problem." “No problem,†says your server, when you request more bread. Well, thanks for the reassurance – that really takes a load off my mind. I’ve been sitting here consumed with anxiety over whether my requesting bread, or a refill of water, might...
A There in Oakland
Hot Discovery: the East Bay’s Pizzaiolo, where Tai and I recently had killer pizza as good as in Rome – the kind with the thin, delectable crusts, and sensitive, deeply delicious toppings. Mine had ricotta and wild nettles – Tai’s was a classic Margherita with...
Patron No-Nos
There's one in every crowd: The loudmouth, I mean. The person whose voice can clear a room. It is rude beyond belief that people will sit down in a public place - in this case a restaurant - and proceed to hold every other diner hostage simply by talking nonstop, or...
Snacks
David Jackman from the irresistible house of Chocolate (1522 Pacific Avenue) called me to remind everybody that when the weather is cold and rainy, don't just walk on by this chic little cafe. "Lots of people think that without the outdoor tables and chair, there's no...
Attention Servers!
More No-Nos: Please don’t swoop down on my table the minute we’ve sat down and ask, “Would you like something to drink?†Chances are we would, but how can we possibly know until we’ve had a minute to look at the wine list? Clearly this swooping maneuver is...
Restaurant No-No’s
I can't take it anymore! Surely this has happened to you. You are out dining, enjoying your main course and your server comes by the table and asks: "Are you guys still working on that?" I am always put off by such rude and inappropriate behavior. Doesn't anyone train...
Oral Oracle
Oral Update: It takes a dentist. And that’s not a book by Rick Santorum. Like my dentist, bon vivant William Christie, a guy who does lunch in a big way. So I checked in with the doc about the new place in the downtown Santa Cruz Art Center, Center Street Grill,...
Yes – Oswald is still open!
Relax, food fans. Downtown's cozy bistro Oswald is not going anywhere anytime soon. According to longtime staffer Janet Silverglate the restaurant will remain in its present location between Pacific and Cedar Streets for many, many months to come. "We don't feel any...
Bites: Hula Scoop
Dear Muffie: I'm dying to tell you about the new place called Hula's I tried in Santa Cruz last week . . . - you know how Courtney Love always says that "God is in the details," well, this new island-surfing theme place (where the old China Szechuan used to be) is...
Hot Plates
November was a great month for dining around the Bay Area, and I want to praise a few special dishes served in some exciting surroundings. We made a run for Absinthe after the opera last week and were charmed to pieces by an authentic version of earthy coq au vin,...
A Different Thanksgiving
It was just the two of us this year, so we down-scaled our Thanksgiving feast into a manageable dinner focusing on seasonal, local and wild. I especially like wild dining. So I picked up a gorgeous filet of wild Alaska King salmon at Dave's, and a few russets from New...
Chocolate Worth the Calories
The quest for chocolate continues — and my most recent fieldwork has turned up another reason to live. Lake Champlain Organic Chocolate! Packaged in a convenient purse-sized (!) 1.25 oz bar, this truly TDF chocolate comes in some brilliant forms. Those who like it...
Egg Power!
TLC rancher Jim Dunlop himself was doing the farmers market honors last Saturday - sitting on a mound of free-range gold from his free-rambling, pasture raised chickens. I've wandered the range with some of the very chickens who laid these eggs and a happier, more...
New Testament Cuisine
What would Jesus eat? we asked as we thought about a special Easter dinner this year. Well, obviously lamb, yogurt, onions, rice pilaff, pine nuts, something with lemons and olive oil. Garlic, absolutely garlic. Lamb grilled over wood found in the desert, like...
Springtime on a Plate
If Sean Baker gets any better at what he does, Gabriella could wind up with a Michelin star one of these days. We were blown away on the first evening of Spring by a few choice appetizers from what is becoming the top kitchen in the area. Certainly for sheer...
Au Midi for Lunch
It was a moment of matchless synchronicity. I met my great and good friend Rita Bottoms, former empress of UCSC Special Collections, for lunch at Au Midi in Aptos. There we were, surrounded by colorful impressions of Parisian cafe life, thanks to a display of oil...
Oral Fantasy
Confession. I'd walk a mile for a cupcake. A residual daydream from childhood, where the cupcake was Queen. An ornamental, hand-held device that can transport you to immediate comfort — ah, the cupcake! Creamy, layered with complex sweetness, spice, tender texture...
Oswald Update: #417
Relax, it's gonna happen. I spoke with Oswald co-owner/chef Damani Thomas yesterday and he's definitely on the project. "We're just trying to get the construction going," he said. Everything is taking longer than expected, but Thomas is looking toward Oswald opening,...
On the Waterfront
The view from the front door of Riva Fish House is enough to induce instant serenity. The big-shouldered seafood menu at Riva is always a reason to drive out onto the water and enjoy all those huge, oceanic views. The gelato selection alone is legendary. But now...
Indulgence
Think how many souls you could have sprung from limbo with this block of butter! Fifty-five pounds of butter, to be exact. This is only one of dozens of butter blocks that will be carved into pastry, frosting, cakes and cookies at Gayle's Bakery on any given day. I...
Tapenade
My on-going grazing tour of La Jolla continued last week with lunch at the very smartly decorated Tapenade, a few blocks off the seaside village main drag of Prospect Street. Pale yellow walls, handsome floral design and attractive waiters all set a positive tone to...