Christina Waters

Smart plates in a sleek, sophisticated setting. (Nothing beats alliteration - nothing.) Anya and I checked out the brand-new lunch menu at Soif last Friday and were treated to some lovely stuff in the way of a chopped salad of romaine entangled with crisp red cabbage, zest of salami and parmigiano, flecks of Kalamata olives, a few chick peas (okay, more than a few) and even goat cheese as well.

This massive portion — easily enough for three women or two surfers, or Kobe Bryant — ran $9. We also shared a sensuous panino of jamon serrano and fresh figs, all gooey and decadent thanks to melted mozzarella, for $12. This baby was one of those monuments to Italian sandwich genius - high fashion on a plate, yet a little impractical in the actual eating. One bite and the opulent contents began to ooze out both sides. So we adjusted the interior as we ate. With the sandwich, I ordered a cup of the day’s soup, a pale yellow fresh corn puree — sweet and creamy — laced with slices of yellow and red cherry tomatoes.

And to drink, I had a hefty glass of freshly-squeezed lemonade, full of fiber and rustic, tangy lemon flavor. Anya had an espresso.

Soif’s lunch menu is simple and direct. Three salads, three panini, a soup du jour and a daily quiche.

Cool beverages, coffees and eight wines by the glass. Soif has done all of the thinking for you — you need only show up.

Soif for lunch is a great downtown place to take your finicky out-of-town guests. On Walnut Avenue, next door to every woman’s fashion pit-stop — Shandrydan.

The word is that Oswald is definitely still in the pipeline. Yesterday there were two trucks out front, at the corner of Soquel and Front Sts., plumbing guys doing something to the interior. So that looks promising. When? Well, you might think about Thanksgiving in a new setting. . . . The word is good on the new Khyber Pass, where Afghan and Pakistani cuisine share the billing. Flavor-wise this makes good sense and since I love the mint-inflected foods of Afghanistan, I’m getting down there very soon. . . . Gorgeous foods, casual setting — that’s the off-beat, high contrast ambience of Fusion at Pearl Alley, where the trained hand of chef Robert Morris (formerly Blacks Beach Cafe) is making plates so pretty you can hardly bear to take a bite. . . . And lunches at Soif now provide a sophisticated downtown setting for smart plates to match the smart pours. Soif does lunch Wednesday through Saturday, noon to 2pm. 105 Walnut Ave in Santa Cruz.

Starting Wednesday, June 25, Soif is open for lunch. See my post at the top of the page. That’s right, wine fans. Now you can enjoy chef Chris Avila’s lunches, Wed - Sat, from noon to 2, at Soif, located at 105 Walnut Avenue, in downtown Santa Cruz (831-423-2020)

Be the first on your block to sample salads, soups, sandwiches with your favorite wine.

The San Francisco Opera’s new production of Das Rheingold — the first of Richard Wagner’s four “Ring” cycle masterworks — is musically mighty, but dramatically thin. Woeful set design — presumably by a last-minute committee of amateurs — caused almost fatal dissonance with an outstanding orchestra, playing music to end the world by for three straight hours.
A decent cast, with the unfortunate exception of Mark Delavan’s wobbly Wotan, did its best to overcome a rickety set of cardboard props, direction by Marx Brothers surrogates, and a set that could only have been some sort of 21st century WPA project. The allegedly innovative digital backdrops made embarrassing references to every PBS science special you’ve ever seen, while the raked stage floor sabotaged grace, causing loud “thumps” and “oomphs” during the changing of the scenes. Actors stumbled, wandered aimlessly, (more…)

From the volcanic soils of Tenerife - largest of the Canary Islands - comes this seductive white wine. 2006 Tajinaste Valle de la Orotava Blanco, Spain, is the official label - but actually it’s magic realism in a bottle. The grape is Listan blanco, the flavor is salty peaches, wet stones and ozone. Laced with minerals and citrus, but mysterious primal elements as well. (At 11.5% alcohol, this could be breakfast.)
It can be found at Soif for under $20. And besides, when was the last time you tasted a wine from the Canary Islands?

Avanti that is. A few very hot nights ago we gave up on the whole idea of cooking and headed over to Ristorante Avanti where the evening specials dazzled.

Under the expertise of lead sauté cook Roberto Serna, two entrees and one shared salad said everything about the season, the imagination of executive chef Ben Sims, and the ability of a known quantity to surprise us all over again.

The meal began with a salad of adolescent arugula, bathed in a sherry vinaigrette that allowed the fruity olive oil to take the major role. Shaved parmesan - not tons of it, just enough to add some salty sparkle - joined toasted almonds and (more…)

Cholula - yes, the deliciously picante Mexican chile sauce that offers flavor interest as well as kick. Thanks to the piquin and arbol chiles it contains, this eye-opener bursts into full flower powered by an under-current of vinegar.

Watch scrambled eggs take on new life. Rekindle the love you once felt for left-over brown rice. Turn shredded chicken into the stuff of dreams. Modest dreams, perhaps. But still - it’s the bomb. And you can find it everywhere. Get some to add to your condiment stash, and do it now!

If you adore great food, and the chance to get into the kitchen with a true culinary master, you might consider taking the Kitchen Classics Cooking Tour with Diana Kennedy – August 15 – 25. The My Mexico Tours junket, run by the highly experienced and vivacious Betsy McNair, begins in the beautiful colonial city of Morelia, then on to Zitacuaro for great dining and exploring. You’ll shop the markets with Diana Kennedy – close to the inn where you’ll be staying – watch and participate in classes in Kennedy’s own home Quinta Diana, plus have ample time to visit studios of local artisans, cook with the master and eat amazing regional foods.

Ten nights, eleven days - $2900 per person, double occupancy (excluding airfare, airport transfer and personal expenses.

If I weren’t teaching in August, I’d be there myself – but there are a few spots remaining! You could occupy one of them if you move swiftly to contact Betsy, at www.mymexicotours.com, or 831-476-9693.

Judy Schultze of Windy Oaks Estate Vineyards emailed to remind me that the charmingly rustic facility — which just squeaked through the recent south county fires unscathed — will be open during the rest of June (hurry!) for tastings of what many argue is one of the top Pinot Noirs in California. (more…)

If there’s a legal thrill that comes close to great, live opera - I haven’t found it yet. And last Sunday’s opening matinee performance of Ariodante just proved it all over again.

Written seemingly to twist Baroque-era vocal chords into rococo pretzels, Handel’s 275-year-old masterpiece is your basic love, betrayal, revenge, death and happy ending opera seria, loaded with soprano parts written for men and sung by women in 18th century drag. Got that? Think of it this way: Handel was the toast of Europe when Ariodante debuted in 1735. It was created for the male (castrato) soprano superstar Giovanni Carestini — written by a German (Handel) living in London, set in Scotland and sung in Italian. Ben Franklin very likely saw this opera. Twice.

Sunday’s performance was by every benchmark a knock-out, bringing the San Francisco Opera House audience to its feet at least three times during the 3 hours of killer vocal pyrotechnics — imagine all those serious, white-haired opera buffs screaming, cheering and stomping their approval. Delicious. (more…)