Christina Waters

Now here’s chardonnay intriguing enough to appeal even to diehard red wine lovers like me.

It’s the mighty Varner Santa Cruz Mountains, Spring Ridge Vineyard - Home Block - Chardonnay 2006. Yes it is a long name for a wine, but since winemakers Bob and Jim Varner also create several other very tasty chardonnays, the designation requires lots of specifics. Highly acclaimed by all the usual suspects — Robert Parker is a huge fan — this wine will take you for a better quality spin than you’re probably used to.

This very lightly oaked 14.3% creation is made from Portola Valley grapes. Actually, it’s only on the second day that the oak peeks through the firm mineral center.

Fraught with depth and tightly coiled, the Home Block chard is a Kundalini of a wine, offering cascades of kumquat, chalk, apricot and white pepper. More…

Lunch last week at downtown Santa Cruz’ Cafe Mare knocked me out - in two ways.

First off the kitchen had just received a huge harvest of fresh porcini mushrooms and was busy turning out a gorgeous variety of daily specials involving the sweet, earthy funghi. My companion and I sampled bruschetta topped (nicely over-the-topped) with melted tallegio and sauteed porcinis. It was incredible!

Another great revelation of the lunch was a bottle of Cumbre Pinot Noir Hicks Family Vineyard 2006, loaded with raspberries and licorice. This gorgeous wine made by Sal Godinez of the Wines of Vine Hill group More…

Sean Baker has created a short menu of flavor gems at Le Cigare Volant cafe. The new tasting room for Bonny Doon Vineyard wines offers items like this supple hiramasa crudo, unctuous with fennel olive oil and garnished with pungent cress and shaved fennel. This is truly take-no-prisoners cuisine. Open from Thursday through Sunday, 11:30 - 5:30pm, the cafe will turn you on to Baker’s culinary metaphysics partnered by the exact, perfect, spot-on wines.

Everybody loves cheese, but few of us get to hang out with someone whose cheese lore is deep and pungent. That someone would be fromagiere Andrea London who can talk époisses and cabicou ’til the cows come home. How exciting it was to discover last week that London will be part of the new multi-tiered wine, food and biodynamic delivery team at Bonny Doon Vineyard’s new tasting room. Every Friday from 11-5:30, London will be on hand at the tasting room to demystify dozens of fine domestic and imported cheeses.

The array of fromages du jour will be set out along the wine bar that faces The Cigare Volant Cafe, inside the new tasting cathedral. London is an accessible woman who loves talking cheese, and she’ll provide copious tastes to “illustrate” her talking points. Yet another reason to stop by the new attraction at the very busy Ingalls Street depot on the Westside of Santa Cruz.

My recent response to the recession was “Let them recalculate my APR!, the greedy scoundrels!” Having said that, pax Marie Antoinette, I have discovered the joys of dining small, but well, on some of the terrific appetizer dishes created by our top chefs. At Avanti, last Saturday we made dinners of our salads of roast brussel sprouts and cappellini beans ….A few days later, Ava and I shared one of those terrific scallop small plates offered at Soif. This one involved absolutely perfect scallops on top of a bed of ripe apple, tart arugula and toasted pumpkin seeds. Paired with a flight of sauvignon blancs from France, New Zealand, South Africa and California, it was big indulgence for about $30. . . .Then on Wednesday, I joined wine writer Laura Ness for lunch at Gabriella, where Sean Baker continues to outdo himself in terms of culinary exploration. An immense platter of housemade salumi included a variety of prosciutto, salume, coppa and pancetta accompanied by a head of roasted garlic and some grilled baguette. Incredible. Ditto my trumpet mushroom fritatta served along with a fluff of infant lettuces.

It’s entirely possible that my earthy egg dish was inhanced by a glass of Storrs Chardonnay Stu Miller Vineyard 2007, filled with ripe peaches and impressive structure. The knowledgeable Ness provided vivacious wine lore and the food, wine and Gabriella ambience did the rest.

And that would be the new, cavernous Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room, aka The Cellar Door, open daily until 5:30pm. It’s architecturally sexy, flaunting its biodynamic Weltanschauung by means of such flourishes as a spiralling multi-tiered waterfall swirling out of a cow’s horn (one of the major instruments of ritual used in biodynamic preparation.)

Your $7 will get you copious tastes of BD’s latest oeno-wonders, poured and articulated by a skilled tasting crew. The cafe, with menu designed by chef Sean Baker (of Gabriella), has fired up its ovens for a chic little selection of small plates — sophisticated foods to accompany deeply interesting wines. The cafe serves sensuous foods paired with wines, from 11-5:30 Thursday through Sunday.
Get on over to the new tasting room, and welcome the dooning of yet more action at the exciting corner of Swift & Ingalls, on Santa Cruz’ Westside.

What is it about winemakers? Are there any who aren’t intense, attractive, and somehow super-charged with the same stuff that Daniel Craig’s got? Well, if so I haven’t yet met ‘em.

Take silver-haired Jerry O’Brien, from Silver Mountain (hmmm, did he name the winery after his hair? must remember to ask).

Here he is pouring ridiculously fine chardonnay and pinot noir from his brand, and telling tales about the origin of the Tondre’s Grapefields name, at last weekend’s gala Great Wine Escape at the very plush new Inter-Continental Clement Hotel on Cannery Row. And O’Brien was only one of the attractions at this smartly organized excuse to sample the wares of over 40 Monterey County Vintners and Growers.

This beautiful plate of pork, tropical fruits and mashed purple potatoes was whipped up by Kevin Boyle of the Hyatt Regency Maui Resort, and served to grateful wine tasters at the Monterey event. Tasted even better than it looks!

Witness the awesome spectacle of Bonny Doon Vineyard President for Life Randall Grahm trading oeno-wits with vine geek Gary Vaynerchuk on Wine Library TV. This gonzo behind-the-scenes foray into deep tannin-speak is so big, so bold, so over-the-top that it requires TWO episodes.

Not to miss!

Once edified, prepare to toast RG at the winery’s new tasting room - opening in two weeks - on Ingalls Street.

That link again: http://tv.winelibrary.com/.

The infamous Le Cigare Volant, now in its 21st vintage, was the wine that launched Rhône Ranger Randall Grahm into the oenological stratosphere. A brilliant riff upon the Châteauneuf-du-Pape blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre and a few dabs of this and that, the Cigare has always proved reliable, classy, and in some years, great. 2004 — the year of the latest Flying Cigar release - might be one of the great ones. Weighing in at a highly drinkable 13.5% alcohol, this garnet red elixir is dense with roses and licorice, a hint of cassis, spice and a beefy center. Minerals haunt every sip of this blend of 50% grenache, 24% mourvedre, 22% syrah, and a bit of carignane and cinsault.

This cuvée’s grapes hail from Gilroy and San Benito, as well as the mighty Bien Nacido vineyard down in Santa Maria. The Bonny Doon Vineyard flagship is a lovely creation, about as good as $30 gets and a sensational partner to that festive rack of lamb you’ve been planning. Best on Day Two, so open it now! Le Cigare Volant — life’s too short not to indulge.

Wine lovers will hit the trail on Saturday, September 13, Noon-5pm, for the vineyard pub crawl known as the Corralitos Wine Trail.

At this popular event, inquiring oenophiles can visit all four Corralitos award-winning wineries Alfaro Family Vineyards, Nicholson Vineyards, Pleasant Valley Vineyards and Windy Oaks Estate Winery , taste barrel samples, walk the vineyards, and talk to the winemakers. One ticket covers all tastings, food, and fun.Check the Wine Trail website for all details. (Wine Trail poster boy Richard Alfaro is shown pouring some of his luscious Alfaro Family Vineyards pinot noir at Hollins House last month.) More…