I have loved O’mei for over 25 years, and as of last week I still love this low-key house of brilliant flavor combinations, culinary creativity and seasonally-changing menus.

Winter seems to fire the creative juices of O’mei cooks, who have come up with a whole new menu long on chili-laced squash, Sichuan green peppercorns, eggs and house-cured pork belly Small plates now include blistered red peppers with thin-sliced cured pork belly that is as good as the first time you tasted ice cream.

Several entrees of seasonal note include a comforting, spicy stew of pork belly, mixed squashes, Sichuan peppercorns and bits of soft tofu in a dazzling broth(below right).  Prawns with minced pork, black beans, peas and egg. And as local fans know, O’mei desserts also dazzle, including a new special of apricot almond custard.

Perhaps it’s human nature to take quality for granted, but I’m thinking this outstanding restaurant should be at the top of everyone’s dining list. Maybe it’s the economy, but this place should be packed nightly.

Remember the expression, use it or lose it?