by Christina Waters | Mar 13, 2008 | Home |
That’s French for schoolhouse forty-one, and it probably refers to some esoteric bit of vineyard architecture somewhere up in Washington. But all you need to remember is the name.
This winery – L’Ecole No. 41 – makes killer faux Bordeaux – especially something called Perigée that will refine your view of what the cool northwest can produce. But it also makes a truly Burgundian chardonnay, as I found out with this 2006 vintage. A terrific balance of acid, minerals and stone fruit – with just a whisper of oak – this is a chardonnay that even sauvignon blanc drinkers like moi can really relate to.
Here’s the big fat caveat. Take a look at this colossal labelling blunder. An elegant wine – priced at a not exactly rock bottom $23 – with a child’s drawing, however darling, as the label. (more…)
by Christina Waters | Mar 12, 2008 | Food, Home |
Think how many souls you could have sprung from limbo with this block of butter! Fifty-five pounds of butter, to be exact. This is only one of dozens of butter blocks that will be carved into pastry, frosting, cakes and cookies at Gayle’s Bakery on any given day.
I thought of Michelangelo as I watched this pastry worker slicing off slabs of creamy richness from the mother block.
by Christina Waters | Mar 12, 2008 | Food, Home |
My on-going grazing tour of La Jolla continued last week with lunch at the very smartly decorated Tapenade, a few blocks off the seaside village main drag of Prospect Street. Pale yellow walls, handsome floral design and attractive waiters all set a positive tone to the meal my mother, Marie, and I enjoyed. From the house signature tapenade, served with two breads (l.), to a spectacular dessert of warm chocolate “fondant”, we enjoyed the slight French inflection to this popular dining menu.
My mom’s risotto was laced with fresh English peas, prawns and ahi tuna — all delicious — but the most remarkable thing about this dish was the complete creaminess of the Arborio rice. As if just made at someone’s home, this was a few miles beyond restaurant risotto. 
But dessert was the apex of lunch at Tapenade. Gorgeously presented, the tiny chocolate fondant was indeed molten to the core, and served with a thick sauce of passionfruit caramel and a satiny ginger sorbet. Absolutely wonderful. With a slightly updated menu, Tapenade could join the ranks of destination, south-of-Carmel eateries.
by Christina Waters | Mar 11, 2008 | Home |
How long will it take for someone to notice the red gummi bear sticking to the front of the clock?
Whose hand is furtively moving away from the clock? What mystery culprit licked the back of the candy bear and stuck it onto the clock face?
These are only some of the mysteries that could easily replace political scandal and the rising cost of gasoline in our collective consciousness.
Incidentally, the little red gummi has been on the clock for over two months. Stay tuned.
by Christina Waters | Mar 5, 2008 | Home, Wine |
Two recent visits to Soif put me in direct contact with flavor dazzle, starting with small plates of those addictive roasted Marcona almonds and crostini topped with tangy boquerones and aioli (shown left). An appetizer of fresh Dungeness crab salad joined by a mega-side portion of watercress added more Meyer lemon top notes. On another visit I shared a voluptuous side dish of Brussels sprouts (probably the first time “voluptuous” and “Brussels sprouts” have been used together in a sentence) with bacon. All wonderful. But best was the duck entree centerpiece of each of my two meals.
Duck is one of my passions and this particular version is everything you want a duck dish to be. Slices of rare, lean roast duck breast join succulent baby bok choy and plump whole shiitake mushrooms, all married by a velvety sauce of lemongrass and ginger. This is all magic, but even more so accompanied by an elegant 2005 Dufouleur Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Pinot Noir from Burgundy ($6.75/taste). Sure the duck would also have been memorable partnered by a glass of the remarkable 2005 Leitz Riesling Spatlese, as suggested by le maison Soif honchos. But I’m pretty firmly committed to red wine with duck. Heaven.
Soif Wine Bar & Restaurant holds forth at 105 Walnut Avenue in downtown Santa Cruz – 831/423-2020.
