Relax, it’s gonna happen. I spoke with Oswald co-owner/chef Damani Thomas yesterday and he’s definitely on the project. “We’re just trying to get the construction going,” he said. Everything is taking longer than expected, but Thomas is looking toward Oswald opening, “hopefully this summer.”
And yes he will be doing the cooking. “That’s what I was born to do.”
The view from the front door of Riva Fish House is enough to induce instant serenity. The big-shouldered seafood menu at Riva is always a reason to drive out onto the water and enjoy all those huge, oceanic views. The gelato selection alone is legendary. But now there’s another reason to drift on down to the Wharf — a handsome show of hand-printed black and white photographs by Katy Cater, lining the walls of Riva with soothing images of interior landscapes and sculptural botanicals — as if Cater were the love child of Brassai and Imogen Cunningham.
For the life of me I couldn’t produce a decent snapshot of one of Cater’s haunting photographs – I especially love the one looking across the rumpled bed, through the open window, looking at the windows of an apartment across the way. So you’ll need to get down to Riva all by yourself – the show’s up through May.
And speaking of Riva, it’s all true — says restaurant czarina Germaine (Red, 515) Akin. Attorney Martin Drobac —one of the original Riva partners —is now the sole owner. The place always feels welcoming — especially on a grey spring afternoon when the view of the water over a mojito looks especially serene.
You know where the Wharf is, don’t you? Riva Fish House – 500 Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf. Call 831.429-1223 and ask about the catch of the day.
Think how many souls you could have sprung from limbo with this block of butter! Fifty-five pounds of butter, to be exact. This is only one of dozens of butter blocks that will be carved into pastry, frosting, cakes and cookies at Gayle’s Bakery on any given day.
I thought of Michelangelo as I watched this pastry worker slicing off slabs of creamy richness from the mother block.
My on-going grazing tour of La Jolla continued last week with lunch at the very smartly decorated Tapenade, a few blocks off the seaside village main drag of Prospect Street. Pale yellow walls, handsome floral design and attractive waiters all set a positive tone to the meal my mother, Marie, and I enjoyed. From the house signature tapenade, served with two breads (l.), to a spectacular dessert of warm chocolate “fondant”, we enjoyed the slight French inflection to this popular dining menu.
My mom’s risotto was laced with fresh English peas, prawns and ahi tuna — all delicious — but the most remarkable thing about this dish was the complete creaminess of the Arborio rice. As if just made at someone’s home, this was a few miles beyond restaurant risotto. 
But dessert was the apex of lunch at Tapenade. Gorgeously presented, the tiny chocolate fondant was indeed molten to the core, and served with a thick sauce of passionfruit caramel and a satiny ginger sorbet. Absolutely wonderful. With a slightly updated menu, Tapenade could join the ranks of destination, south-of-Carmel eateries.
Along Park Street, the main – and only – drag in atmospheric (read: funky) Alameda, there are dozens of bars and an increasing number of coffee places. My favorite is Julie’s – 1223 Park St., – where the house specialty is scones and home-made clotted cream, aka Devonshire cream.
I joined filmmaker Saul Landau there a few days ago and we sat in one of Julie’s vintage nooks outfitted with velvety couches and over-stuffed chairs and swilled excellent espresso. The currant-laced scones are in a word, perfect. Tender, yet beautifully baked to just the point of brown crustiness, they are rich and delicate. The generous portion of cream that comes with the scone is the stuff of true oral fantasies. Almost obscenely rich, tart and creamy – this wonderful topping is what butter wants to be when it grows up. Naughty butter!
In a room that smelled like paradise I watched a woman adding intricate lettering to the top of a freshly-made birthday cake.
Find out where I was.
In the March 5, Metro Santa Cruz.
A book of sensory adventure: The rituals, passions and discoveries of an engaged life.