La Posta

La Posta

maltagliati.jpgSomehow this neighborhood dining room continues to disarm us. Last night four of us enjoyed a flawless series of plates, from a pizza bianca with crust as thin as a fashion model’s thigh to a sensational emerald appetizer of wild nettle sformato custard smothered with thin shaves of asparagus, arugula and infant pecorino. Tiny allium blossoms added a light onionesque topnote.
While my companions feasted on lamb sausages, buttery halibut and perfectly prepared spring vegetables, I went supernova over a plate of maltagliati (“freeform”) pasta tossed with fava leaves, anchovy, pine nuts, currants and pecorino romano. Literally a perfect plate of pasta. With glasses of the excellent house montepulciano, we dove straight into Tuscany for a few happy hours. Kudos to chef Katherine Stern and company.

30 Years of Kelly’s

30 Years of Kelly’s

kelly.jpgThank you Kelly Porter Sanchez for deciding three decades ago to do exactly what you wanted to do, and to do it your way. No compromises, no complaints.

Congratulations!
You’ve made a lot of people so happy that they barely realized how much went into their favorite coffee, lunch, meeting spot. The bread, croissants, cakes, and did I forget to mention those poached eggs on polenta?

The pear tart. The caramel almond ice cream.

Thank you, thank you.

Telos Delosil @ Gabriella

Telos Delosil @ Gabriella

gabriellainvol.jpgThe chef with the intriguing name has moved into the top slot at Gabriella, after a year getting to know the kitchen and clientele.

We sampled some of Delosil’s beautifully presented plates last night and came away smiling. Gorgeous beets, gemlike Dungeness crab involtini, and an astonishing plate of risotto laced with wild nettles and golden chanterelles.

To create the clever involtini appetizer (shown here), chef Delosil tucked fresh crab into curls of watermelon radish, (more…)

Joze Goes Persian – March 27

Persian New Year comes to India Joze restaurant on Sunday, March 27, 2011 from 4-8 PM with a special evening of Persian food, poetry, and dance. If you think chef Joseph Schultz does Thai and Indonesian cuisine brilliantlyl (and he does, oh he does), then you’re in for a big treat.

He has no rivals in wok’ing the middle eastern culinary landscape, and the upcoming, multi-course feast should prove gastronomically enchanting. Make reservations @ the India Joze website.

Pasta La Posta

Pasta La Posta

pasta.jpgOnce again proving that some pastas ARE better than others, the kitchen at La Posta wow’d us last night with this plate of succulent pappardelle verde laced with housemade sausage and braised wild nettles. Tangy, buttery, utterly delicious, it had the four of us vying for each tender slippery bite.

Cellar Door

Cellar Door

squid.jpgHere is something rococo—and delicious—we sampled last week from the hand of Cellar Door chef Jarod Ottley.  A froth of tender local squid, accompanied by pink grapefruit and pea sprouts dotted a long mound of quinoa. Brilliant crimson beet puree accompanied and a slick of rich date confit provided the sweet visual accent.

A lot going on. All of it good. We partnered our meal last week with glasses of never-better Nebbiolo and Cigare 2006, from the oeno-mind of Randall Grahm. And yes, Cellar Door service is outstanding.