by Christina Waters | Mar 21, 2008 | Food, Home |
If Sean Baker gets any better at what he does, Gabriella could wind up with a Michelin star one of these days.
We were blown away on the first evening of Spring by a few choice appetizers from what is becoming the top kitchen in the area. Certainly for sheer creativity, sex appeal and culinary chance-taking — it sets the pace.
From an amuse of pastured lamb on aioli and heirloom tomato glaze, to the long fingers of grilled bread topped with green garlic — okay, the Grüner Veltliner and Morgan Pinot Noir certainly didn’t hurt — it was one of those matchless hours in a lovely dining room.
Surrounded by the new show of oil paintings by Tom Maderos, Katya and I split two appetizers that show chef Baker’s continued exploration of the fresh, 
the wild and the organically-grown.
A dish of grilled wild shrimp arrived on a bed of warm marrow beans that had been tossed in something spicey with flashes of sweetness. Crimson nuggets of pomegranate seeds joined the sensuous beans, and a marmellata of spring onions and garlics added depth. As conceptually smart as this dish is, it was effortless to enjoy. The flavors soared.
The special appetizer of the evening proved another huge hit. (more…)
by Christina Waters | Mar 20, 2008 | Food, Home |
It was a moment of matchless synchronicity. I met my great and good friend Rita Bottoms, former empress of UCSC Special Collections, for lunch at Au Midi in Aptos. There we were, surrounded by colorful impressions of Parisian cafe life, thanks to a display of oil paintings by Rita’s husband, Tom Bottoms — when our host Michel Loubiere brought a few bottles of wine to our table.
“You have an admirer,” he revealed. And we looked over at a happy foursome – one of whom was winemaker Ryan Beauregard, a savvy young talent who knows an opportunity when he sees one. So we sampled some brand-new releases from Beauregard Winery, including a notable Sauvignon Blanc 2006, loaded with crisp structure and a long, solid middle – made from grapes harvested in Lake County. Our lunch began with tableside greetings from chef Muriel Loubiere, some fragrant francese and a velvety soup of sunchokes.
My Daube provencale entrée of Kobé beef, carrots and polenta showed off the chef’s miraculous reduction sauce of wine, herbs and a topnote of orange. (more…)
by Christina Waters | Mar 16, 2008 | Home, Wine |
Bonny Doon Vineyard has no peer when it comes to self-reinvention. The oenological shape-shifting continues with this week’s preview of the first all-biodynamically produced, Demeter-certified bottlings from BDV’s Ca’del Solo Vineyard in Monterey County. And there is much to like.
The immediate eye appeal, for one thing (see image). Note the fresh green graphic design on the Stelvin screw cap, quoting the crystallization image which now adorns all estate vintage labels. The 2007 Albariño visually proclaims its heightened sensitivity, an opening salvo of the new, improved, downscaled Empire of Doon. But that’s not all.
From the branding genius of founder Randall Grahm – a man who continues to set the pace when it comes to value-added consciousness – comes new labelling transparency. Not only are the grapes grown according to the terroir-nurturing practices of biodynamic farming, but the labels now list every last blessed ingredient (all of them benign, naturellement) involved in the making of these wines. To whit: “Indigenous yeast, organic yeast hulls, bentonite, tartaric acid.” How evolved of our local heroes! It would seem that no other winery is offering to let it all hang out, contents-wise. And this, once again, separates Grahm’s crew from the rest of the pack.
Marketing, schmarketing — how does it taste? (more…)
by Christina Waters | Mar 15, 2008 | Food, Home |
Relax, it’s gonna happen. I spoke with Oswald co-owner/chef Damani Thomas yesterday and he’s definitely on the project. “We’re just trying to get the construction going,” he said. Everything is taking longer than expected, but Thomas is looking toward Oswald opening, “hopefully this summer.”
And yes he will be doing the cooking. “That’s what I was born to do.”
by Christina Waters | Mar 15, 2008 | Food, Home |
The view from the front door of Riva Fish House is enough to induce instant serenity. The big-shouldered seafood menu at Riva is always a reason to drive out onto the water and enjoy all those huge, oceanic views. The gelato selection alone is legendary. But now there’s another reason to drift on down to the Wharf — a handsome show of hand-printed black and white photographs by Katy Cater, lining the walls of Riva with soothing images of interior landscapes and sculptural botanicals — as if Cater were the love child of Brassai and Imogen Cunningham.
For the life of me I couldn’t produce a decent snapshot of one of Cater’s haunting photographs – I especially love the one looking across the rumpled bed, through the open window, looking at the windows of an apartment across the way. So you’ll need to get down to Riva all by yourself – the show’s up through May.
And speaking of Riva, it’s all true — says restaurant czarina Germaine (Red, 515) Akin. Attorney Martin Drobac —one of the original Riva partners —is now the sole owner. The place always feels welcoming — especially on a grey spring afternoon when the view of the water over a mojito looks especially serene.
You know where the Wharf is, don’t you? Riva Fish House – 500 Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf. Call 831.429-1223 and ask about the catch of the day.
by Christina Waters | Mar 13, 2008 | Home |
That’s French for schoolhouse forty-one, and it probably refers to some esoteric bit of vineyard architecture somewhere up in Washington. But all you need to remember is the name.
This winery – L’Ecole No. 41 – makes killer faux Bordeaux – especially something called Perigée that will refine your view of what the cool northwest can produce. But it also makes a truly Burgundian chardonnay, as I found out with this 2006 vintage. A terrific balance of acid, minerals and stone fruit – with just a whisper of oak – this is a chardonnay that even sauvignon blanc drinkers like moi can really relate to.
Here’s the big fat caveat. Take a look at this colossal labelling blunder. An elegant wine – priced at a not exactly rock bottom $23 – with a child’s drawing, however darling, as the label. (more…)
