Gabriella evolves
An appetizer of beets, throngs of beautiful beets on a field of greens.
An appetizer of beets, throngs of beautiful beets on a field of greens.
Chef Michael Kilmartin anoints a perfect pork chop with sauteed fresh cherries, and presses
it into a bed of polenta, with perfect carrots and roasted infant cabbage.
The 2008 installment of Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Le Cigare Blanc has been released just in time for serious summer relaxing.
An initial tasting provided an opening hit of honeydew, chased with sea salt and finished with some quince, lime and light jasmine. At 57% Roussane (for the depth) and 43% Grenache blanc (for crisp structure) this wine exudes a perfect balance among citrus, fruit and minerals. Its 14.3% alcohol delivers without equivocation.
This wine just can’t lose. (more…)
Okay, not really gossip, just more like mini-updates. Bites, if you will.
I’m hearing very good things about Brad Briske‘s new gig over at Main Street Garden Cafe (the old Theo’s). And I’m hearing them from extremely discerning gourmets, such as Windy Oaks’ Judy Schultze. . . the word I’m getting is cautiously optimistic about the new Burger joint (literally, “Burger” is the name) housed at the corner of Bay & Mission (former Kawa Sushi) . . . and a reminder that cooking ace Marilyn Emery has moved her delicious kiosk Al Fresco up Pacific Avenue. Now she’s whipping up fresh and spicy wraps directly in front of Bookshop Santa Cruz. . . . And finally, I’m going to be checking out the latest new chef at Gabriella, Michael Kilmartin, who stepped in after the departure of the recently-hired Kynan Campisi. Details at eleven.
My two new summer tipples include a gorgeous persimmon-hued Grenache 2008 made by Denis Hoey of Odonata Wines. Full of pepper and berries, it stands up to king salmon as well as grilled chicken and chile verde. Dreamy and local.
The other comes in blush form, namely the 2008 Vin Gris de Cigare from Randall Grahm, of Bonny Doon Vineyard. Salt and geraniums form the center of this crisp, inviting pink wine. Serve icy cold — it goes with everything but marinara sauce.
Last week my great girlfriend Laurel and I headed over to Bandar Persian Restaurant in the bustling Friday night heart of old San Diego for a terrific and authentic meal of middle eastern flavors.
Our starter, an eggplant appetizer slow roasted with fresh garlic and onion topped with homemade yogurt, was blatantly addictive. We sprinkled plenty of dried sumac on top and enjoyed every single bite, along with soft lavosh. I adore sumac, that lemony, sour condiment that somehow jumpstarts every dish in the Persian repertoire.
A stew of spring baby lamb shank – buttery and delicious, slow-cooked with red beans, lime and herbs – was intensely rich and pungent. As was the mountain of saffron rice that accompanied my dish.
Ditto my companion’s order of ground filet mignon (more…)