by Christina Waters | Aug 28, 2007 | Home, Wine |
Here’s what you’re looking at. A wine label written in Chinese. That’s interesting all by itself. But what’s even more interesting is that this is the back label on a bottle of River Run Vintners 2005 Carignane.
Blond, bearded and eternally boyish winemaker J.P.Pawloski knows how to do that voodoo with fine local grapes. And because he wasn’t born yesterday, metaphorically speaking, he knows an opportunity when he sees it. China is nothing if not a marketing opportunity. So the River Run wine wizard, who also moonlights making customized wines for wealthy clients who have grapes, but not necessarily winemaking skills, anyway Pawloski currently buys up substantial lots of otherwise undedicated central coast wines. Then he applies his blending touch, and voila! terrific wines emerge. The River Run label goes on the front – and the Chinese language label goes on the back — and the wines go to J.P.’s Beijing broker who sells them like mad. Awesome.
For us here at home, there’s much good news from River Run. Even though the
entire 2005 vintage of RR’s stunning carignane went to China, this year’s vintage is staying here. Get ready to buy, buy, buy! As you read this J.P. and every other winemaker in California is out in the vineyards, checking sugar, rallying the crews, poised to pounce on the grapes the minute they approach the correct Brix. Then the vendage starts. Over to the next vineyard – checking sugars, picking like crazy, crushing – and then on to the next ripening varietal. (more…)
by Christina Waters | Aug 23, 2007 | Home, Wine |
The Santa Cruz Mountains Commercial Wine Competition for 2007 awarded its medals once again — thanks to the hard work of 50 judges sampling a field of 171 wines from 34 of our premium wineries. This definitely comes under the “hard work, but somebody’s gotta do it” heading. And once again, I didn’t mind helping out by sampling some truly fine red wines.
Along with wine buyers, restaurateurs, sommeliers and other experts, I spent the better part of last Monday in the spacious main dining room of Ma Maison restaurant, working through a four-hour tasting managed by John and Karen Hibble of the SCMWA & Aptos Chamber. And as usual I learned a lot from the assembled experts, including the highly knowledgeable Aaron Brandt from Bittersweet Bistro, former Wine Club buyer Anita Sjoberg, CAVA wine bar’s Cliff Livingston and Theo’s owner Roger Romano.
For the record, this is hard work. Sniffing, tasting, spitting – over and
over again, through at least five flights of six wines each. Helped along with lots of bread and long breaks after every flight, somehow we managed to get through it with palates intact. The photo at right gives you an idea of the sea of glasses confronting us at any given moment. I was judging red wines and that means a temporary case of purple teeth and gums.
The field this year was packed with more terrific wines than I can remember at this annual competition, and most memorable were the outstanding red wines, notably the zinfandels cabs and the mixed blends. Ma Maison chef/owner Lionel LeMorvan provided terrific appetizers (more…)
by Christina Waters | Aug 23, 2007 | Home, Wine |
The first Thursday of every month, Theo’s hosts a Brown Bag Wine Dinner beginning at 6:30pm. A specific wine varietal is featured each month and Chef Nicci Tripp prepares a 3-course meal to complement the chosen wine. The price is only $45 per person, all inclusive, and you need only bring a bottle of the featured wine or purchase one from the wine list to share. Of course, there’s no corkage fee.
Enjoying a cult following among connoisseurs for over a decade, the Theo’s wine evening is a great place to get started learning about wine. As exciting as the chance is to taste a huge range of wines, and to enjoy a fine dinner as well, for my money the big draw is expert commentary by Anita Sjoberg, who knows more about wine than any ten people you’d care to name. (more…)
by Christina Waters | Aug 2, 2007 | Home, Wine |
Of course we all know Ca’ del Solo, the amusing line of vins ordinaire created by the feverish mind of über-winemaker Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards. But forget about what you thought you knew. BD has gone bio-dynamic. That’s right. The Rudolph Steiner proto-ecology about planting naturally, meticulously, with special minerals, herbs, manures and using astrological help whenever it seems appropriate — that bio-dynamic.
Well the 2006 Ca’ del Solo, Albariño, is the first of BD’s bio-dynamic beauties, grown, nurtured and harvested in the Monterey County acres that have been cultivated very, very carefully. The results are striking, if restrained. We liked the ultra-light alcohol — at 12.5% you can sip this for breakfast — and the salty, citrusy body of this perfect-for-summer white wine. Think roughly $13. Another pioneering effort by an unapologetic pioneer.
by Christina Waters | Jul 19, 2007 | Home, Wine |
That would be the magnificent and strange Proietti “Vignalibus” Cesanese from Olevano Romano Italy, now available at Soif retail for a worth-every-penny-of-it $28.
This blood red bottle of vintage 2005 Cesanese grapes offers a rich, musty nose like old roses and deep raspberries, before unpacking its elegant stash of tannins. A lovely creation full of restraint, that doesn’t give itself too quickly.
At times it tends toward zinfandel, yet it remains true to its own idiosyncratic character. I found more rose bouquet as it opened, and a persistant perfume of bricks and geraniums with a hit of vanilla at the bottom. At 13.5% it is an adult wine for stylish and endless summers.
by Christina Waters | Jul 12, 2007 | Home, Wine |
Here’s my new favorite wine — from Sicily, home of volcanic soils, radiant climate and sensuous foods. This lusty cabernet sauvignon is Timpaia 2004, from Feudi di San Giuliano ($17.99 at Shoppers). At 13.5% alcohol it’s big enough to have a mind of its own, but not aggressive. As it opens, it moves through a soft yet full-bodied vocabulary of intriguing opinions, starting with plums, leather and a center of ripe tomato, into a lake of cherry, licorice and gunpowder (that’s the sulfuric, mineral terroir talking, no matter what Dan Patterson says). Finally you’re in a world of sumptuous strawberry.
Terrific with cheeses, it also partners lamb and grilled yellowtail.
