Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir

Thomas Fogarty Pinot Noir

fogarty.jpgIt’s the first Santa Cruz Mountain pinot noir from the 2008 vintage I’ve tasted, and now I know why this beautiful creation from Thomas Fogarty Winery took a gold at the recent SF Chronicle competition.

This full-throated wine is loaded with complex aromatic information, and the flavors just go on and on. Dark plums and tamarind, an undercurrent of licorice and bay leaves, a suggestion of tangerine peel and black pepper — all of these gorgeous notes are delivered by a prime 14.1% alcohol content. Enough to carry the experience, yet definitely not engaged in the fruit bomb California stereotype.

Within reach too, at under $22 a bottle. Try Shoppers and New Leaf, but definitely try this lovely pinot noir.

Big Label, Big Wine

Big Label, Big Wine

lomaprietawine.jpgFrom Loma Prieta Winery comes a statuesque red wine made from rarely-encountered Pinotage grapes, grown in the Sierra foothills.

The locally-made Pinotage — a varietal usually associated with South Africa and produced in only a handful of North American vineyards—is an opulent tipple indeed, offering enough tannic structure to handle its profusion of cassis, ripe plum, black pepper and sassafras. We loved this wine with bolognese and Italian sausage, but on second thought this out-sized wine cries out for steak.

Wine consultant Laura Ness sums it up as, “Pinot Noir on steroids.” This is a good thing.

Exotic and accessible, the Loma Prieta Pinotage 2008 is available at the mountaintop winery, and at Vinocruz ($45).

Titanic Syrah

Titanic Syrah

peaywine.jpgThere are always many good reasons to visit Soif Wine Bar. This superb and supple 2007 estate Syrah from Peay Vineyards is now among those reasons.

Loaded with leather, a central core of robust red meat and soft peppers, this big, beautiful wine floats a hint of roses and fennel in both nose and finish. Extreme persistence highlights this creation of celebrated winemaker Vanessa Wong, and the name “les Titans” derives from some large-scale redwoods on the Sonoma vineyard’s property.

The Peay “Les Titans” syrah is easily one of the finest California syrahs I’ve tasted. Now at Soif. Go there and sample.

Vintage Chemistry

Vintage Chemistry

Chemistry—a wildly energetic blend of rarely-combined white varietals, chemistrywine.jpgincluding pinot gris, chardonnay and (gasp!) riesling—is loaded with nectarines, apple and mineral essences. Even a backnote of almonds.

Utterly drinkable all by itself, this Willamette Valley blend is charming enough to sidle up to grilled halibut, goat cheese, and some of the more subtle pastas and pizzas. Katy Cater poured me a sample at Avanti last week and it was an instant “yes!” Stop by the wine bar in the Westside dining landmark and make friends with this beautifully-balanced blend.

Pinotage Party

Be among the adventurous and sample some exotic Pinotage at a Release Party for the 2008 vintage, August 7 & 8 at Loma Prieta Winery.
Loma Prieta Winery will release the 2nd bottling of 2008 Pinotage from the Amorosa Vineyard in Lodi, along with light appetizers and live music on Saturday afternoon.

There are less than 50 acres of Pinotage planted in California. This intriguing grape was first developed for South African cultivation by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault. The result is an explosive mix of red fruits mingled with spicy cured meat and red licorice. Loma Prieta is the only vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains currently growing this variety, and the only winery producing it. So come over the hill and take a taste on the wild side
Loma Prieta Winery – open every weekend, noon to 5pm.
26985 Loma Prieta Way
Los Gatos, California 95033

Contra – Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Newest

Contra – Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Newest

contra.jpgCloaked in a contrarian label are blended grapes from Contra Costa County (the theme begins to sink in…) transformed into the stuff of great ragu and Gorgonzola delivery systems by the shamanic mind of Randall Grahm.

Priced at $14, Contra sips like a much pricier wine, loaded with dark berries, earth, attitude, autumn leaves and a backbone of spine-tingling tannins. Carignane, grenache, mourvedre, petite syrah, a touch of syrah and yes, even old-vine zinfandel have made their way into the heart of this opulent, dusky creation. 13.5% alcohol and persistent attitude have made it our new house favorite.

Stop by the BD tasting room on Ingalls, ask about the eccentric green label. You’ll find out just why there’s a couch sitting in the vineyards. Think of it as Randall Grahm’s way of helping us get through these fiscal doldrums.

Fourteen bucks. Incroyable!