On Memorial Day, the long, linened “Outstanding in the Field” dinner table was cradled by redwoods and grapevines, the ocean in the distance, apple orchards filled with baby piglets and enormous sows, and roving bands of plump, beautiful chickens.

The spot was Fogline Farms, rightfully famed for lovingly raised free-range animals, and flavor-rich, organic produce. La Posta, Bantam, come to mind, as showcases for these products. Mesquite and applewood fires flamed the appetizer skewers of chicken shoulders, livers, hearts, and bacon-wrapped moshi rice. Crispy anchovies were offered glazed with shichimi and Meyer lemon. We sipped mineral-laced 2012 Hunter Hill Chardonnay.  OITF founder Jim Denevan welcomed the assembled, oh 100 or so participants, before we took the farm tour with Caleb Barron, who farms the substantial acreage with Johnny Wilson.

From San Francisco’s Nojo, chef Greg Dunmore began turning out unusual and densely-flavored dishes of fresh spinach and tofu, mixed with English peas and toasted sesame. Appetizer plates of myriad pickled tsukemono—rutabega, cauliflower, turnips challenged our tastebuds. Along with glasses of Hunter Hill’s robust Syrah, and Estate Pinot Noir, we then dove into whole MacFarland Farms trout, grilled with green garlic and sweet miso vinaigrette. Served with summer squashs bathed in walnut brown butter and ponzu sauce, this was an electrifying dish. My favorite.

The second entree showcased the farm’s incomparable chicken, accompanied by grilled  broccoli, smoked potatoes, and various japanese flourishes.

Dessert—served in the very low light—was black sesame ice cream, with crunchy peanut thunder crackers and roasted strawberries. Wonderful.

Nothing like dining out on the land, surrounded by the botanical energy of orchards and greens and the murmur of contented animals.