Location is everything, especially when traveling alone. Planning for my trip to see Wagner’s incomparable “Ring” cycle this summer in Milan, I made sure I found a hotel situated within easy walking distance of the opera house, a few choice restaurants, and art works I planned to visit. Hotel Star filled the bill! But who knew that the two short blocks from my hotel would also offer not only two versions of the Michelin starred Il Trussardi, but an inviting cafe/restaurant literally adjoining the Teatro la Scala itself?
The offspring of the celebrated il Marchesino, the Ristorante Teatro alla Scala was everything a single visitor could want. The outdoor seating in front was invitingly glamorous, the indoor seating was open afternoons and evenings. And an elegant coffee bar with pastries and liqueurs started serving at 7am.
In addition to making single diners feel completely comfortable—mille grazie!—the Marchesino menu offered lunchtime dishes in two sizes, small and full-sized. Here was heaven for the inquiring grazer. I could easily sample two dishes per meal and not waddle out the chic front door. Wines by the glass were reasonably priced and offered a quick tour of the Piedmont and Lombardy.
One day I began with a cool smoked salmon salad followed by a flawless plate of tagliatelle Bolognese. Each dish was $9, and large enough to be satisfying but small enough that I could finish each dish, along with a fresh roll and sizeable glass of Barbera d’Alba.
My second meal at this beautiful dining room—populated by an intriguing colony of Milanese locals, Russian visitors, Chinese corporate honchos, English professors and German students on holiday— began with an indigenous specialty, a thin torta made of Arborio rice laced with Parmesan cheese and sauteed to golden crispness. It was served all by itself on a plate. I was a bit sceptical at first about this austere specialty, but ended up consuming the entire dish.
Then for my second small plate, I enjoyed a gorgeous wedge of fresh branzino on a tangle of seasonal vegetables fashioned into long strands tossed with a lemony sauce. A topknot of flash fried bresaola puncuated this succulent entree. It was ridiculously delicious, something that would have done any San Francisco temple of cuisine proud. Yet here it was in what amounted to an opera house dining room.
Milan’s knack for style is not consigned to the fashion boutiques alone!
