More will be written – by me among others – about Range, a slender slice of culinary chic at 842 Valencia in the Mission District. But for now let me just give you the short description of our two desserts.

One was a thin, thin wedge of fresh rhubarb tart. The thin slices of rhubarb had been woven into a beautiful chevron mosaic, glazed with (probably) strawberry jam and then baked on the finest pastry crust known to woman. On the side was a single scoop of (be still my heart) pink peppercorn ice cream.

Okay.

The second dessert was a classic – only better than classic – strawberry shortcake with geranium-infused whipped cream. Somewhere in there was a whisper of Meyer lemon.

This is part of why Range has a Michelin star to call its own.