Avanti Advances

Avanti owner Paul Geise admits that long-time customers are getting restless about making sure they dine at the familiar landmark Ristorante Avanti at least once more before it closes. “But that won’t happen until next year,” the owner admitted. “There’s just so much to do and everything takes more time than you think.”

So yes you will be able to dine at the familiar Avanti space throughout the holidays. Geise projects a possible February opening for the new location. “But we won’t close this restaurant until the new one is open.”

as the fruitcake ages…

as the fruitcake ages…

This was how the Magdalene must have felt, anointing the body with precious spices and elixirs, carefully wrapping it in clean linens before placing it in the cool dark place where it would wait—preserved and guarded—until its ultimate appointment with destiny.fruitcakes.jpg

As I watched my fruitcakes slowly cooling on their racks, the mythic significance suddenly hit me. Since the dawn of time, women’s hands had carefully wrapped such precious bodies—in some cases a dead loved one, in others a symbolic cake—the bearer of costly ingredients, memories and hopes for the future.

All such creations were intended to undergo a transformation. To wait until the moment when they would grace the center of the ceremonial table. I considered how many hearths, through how many centuries, had witnessed this preparation.

Mixing the ingredients of two bowls (there was just too much to manage in a single bowl) laden with chopped figs, (more…)

Nutty as a Fruitcake

Nutty as a Fruitcake

When my sister and I were little, we would make the annual trek to Aunt Mariana and jimbeam.jpgUncle Doodle’s house for a holiday visit. Aunt Mariana would reach up high into her pantry and take down the fruitcake we were forced to eat each Christmas.

My sister and I would politely taste a forkful of this brown crumbly creation studded with eerily bright red and green fruits. We would take one bite and then cover the remaining bits with our napkins. Reading each other’s minds we would both think, “yes, but where’s the frosting?

Children hate fruitcake. But many decades later, those early negative impressions were replaced by a romantic afternoon’s experience, on a rainy October day looking out over Lake Como, consuming the local fig and nut cake washed down by grappa. What a difference time (and grappa and a romantic companion) can make.

This season —after years of building a fan base on two coasts for my labor-intensive Christmas cookies—I’ve decided to wade into deeper, more mythic culinary territory. Yes, I’m making fruitcake this year. (more…)

The other orange drink

The other orange drink

Little did I knowcarrotjuice.jpg that I would grow up to consume a breakfast liquid that closely resembles industrial effluent, or rain forest mud mixed with compost.

But I do. And I love this stuff. It’s loaded with carrot, celery, cucumber, collard greens, kale and parsley. It’s organic. It’s delicious in a strange manner that quickly becomes addictive. Bursting with anti-oxidants, magnesium, lutein and other de rigueur minerals, this fabulous morning cocktail will positively eradicate all memories of mere orange juice.

Plus it helps balance your pH, which if I’m not mistaken is probably much more acidic than it should be. It runs somewhere in the neighborhood of $3 and it will change your attitude about waking up.