News of Gabriella’s impending demise—promulgated by the owner himself—seems to have been premature.

The love of a good tax attorney might be just the ticket. We’ll see.

But whatever the actual status of the tiny downtown dining room, a packed house last Friday (including me and my birthday buddy) enjoyed some of the best food ever produced by wunderkind Brad Briske and his young kitchen team.

Somehow there continues to be miles of savvy and style separating what this dining room can produce and what others can manage. Not sure just how or why. But I will be back for more next week.