With its cavernous ceilings, sleek sophisticated surfaces (thanks to Mark Primack) and wine list studded with euro-stars such as Grüner Veltliner and various Austrian reds, Laili could be the east-Asian sibling of Soif.
We checked out the new Afghani dining room for my birthday last week and found it bracingly Palo Alto in feel, a neat trick considering my grandfather used to have an account in this former County Bank building. Excellent service and beautiful presentation were the stars. Both of our lamb dishes hit the spot, yet were curiously monotone after several bites.
Afghani food is not very spicy, nor is it particularly wide-ranging in ingredients. So I’m hoping that the chef and owner put their heads together to expand the menu, perhaps adding a few seafood dishes (yes, I know there’s no shrimp along the Khyber Pass) seasoned “Afghani-style.” In order for Laili to build a clientele of regulars, it needs to offer a bit more in the way of entree diversity – or perhaps a few daily specials. And at least one seafood item.
My glass of Sattler 2006 St. Laurent (an Austrian red grape with the appeal of a soft Pinot Noir) went nicely with a wide plate of lamb kebab, accompanied by memorable current-studded rice, expertly sauteed baby vegetables and some lovely chutneys, notablty a cilantro puree and an apricot variation.
Laili – 101B Cooper Street – 831-423-4545 – lailirestaurant.com
1. What do you have against Mark Primack?
2. I could justify shrimp (if Laili thinks it needs to) as the Mongols, who once
ruled what is now Afghanistan, did conquer their gastronomic way to the
Black Sea and the Straits.
3. I thought their non-alcoholic drinks were well thought out and went well
with the food. (neither Bernard nor I nor the Muslims drink alcohol )
4. I’m glad they have started taking reservations, we couldn’t get a table
the two times before the NY Time article.
Christina – I like your practice of suggesting politely to restaurants where there may be “holes” in their menus, especially ethnic restaurants which may be quite traditional to their native eating habits, but don’t have the necessary variety to meet local tastes.
It’s so, so difficult to succeed in the food business, and a constant struggle to match culinary art to customer needs. Hopefully this restaurant and others will have an open mind. This is not criticism you are giving, it’s a helping hand.
I would appreciate seeing this dimension in all of your reviews. If a restauranteur isn’t open to suggestions, it’s a loss for all concerned.
Christina, first of all you may like noisy restaurants, but perhaps Mark Primack might think of a way to soften the background noise from the other diners. The decor is lovely but perhaps hanging a few handmade rugs over over the metal railing in front or hanging a few on the walls would help. Although the tables are spaced I could barely have a conversation with my partner without raising my voice. We were there for lunch a couple of weeks ago and found the food delightful. The lamb in the wrap was very tender and luscious with just the right amount of spiciness. Since I could care less about shrimp, I didn’t find anything missing. The Afgani chai was wonderful; I don’t drink alcohol either. Have Santa Cruzans become so seafood crazy they can’t frequent a restaurant that doesn’t serve it? That’s worse than those “ugly” Americans expecting a decent hamburger in London. (well, they do have McDonald’s)…and the Indian food is wonderful over there.
I commend the owner for offering well prepared, little known ethnic food. I personally enjoy broadening my knowledge of other cuisine. I suspect he is seeing what appeals to local diners and will extend his menu as needed.
My biggest problem was the noise levels! All those sleek surfaces just bounced the sound around and made it almost impossible to hear our friends across the table. Did not enjoy that.
My husband and I have had lunch here twice. The first time we were impressed by the Afghani cuisine which definitely rivals that available in Fremont. The soup was especially delicious. On a second visit about a month later, again for lunch, I was disappointed by the apricot chicken flatbread because it lacked chicken and the apricot smear was overpoweringly sweet. I called the owner over and told him about it. He apologized saying he talks to his cooks about proper portions. He completely comped our entire lunch even though my husband’s lunch was satisfying and my glass of wine was delicious. We’ll be back because he values his customers.
I’m not sure what Palo Alto restaurants are reminiscent of Laili. I’ve dined in most of them. They definitely have to soften the sound levels. I agree with Donna that a start would be wall hangings.